Adorable, right? I had pinned this hooded vest tutorial and pattern quite a while ago, but I felt like Linus would be too hot in a lined vest and I could never manage to get the pattern to print (This might be because of my own lack of intelligence and patience, especially patience.) So I decided to make my own pattern!
I've just started experimenting with drawing my own patterns, and I just want to say it has been a lot of fun!
(Sidenote: Ok now don't stop reading because you're scared to make your own pattern. I mean it! It's really easy! Check out this tutorial from Dana at made.)
Here's what you'll need:
Shirt to trace for pattern
1 fat quarter for binding
1 yard* of double sided quilted fabric (for a 2T/3T)
One coil separating zipper
(Make sure you have a heavy needle on hand too.)
*I used a directional print you might be able to get by with 3/4 yd if it wasn't directional.)
I wanted my vest to be about a 2T/3T so I traced a 4T shirt I already had on to freezer paper to make my pattern. (I figure a 3T jacket is about the size of a 4T shirt.)
I traced two pattern pieces: the front and the back. I only traced half of the shirt. (Since it's a jacket I'll need the front in two pieces and the back can be cut out on the fold.) Once I traced it I cleaned up my lines and added 5/8" to everywhere I need a seam allowance. For this vest I added 5/8" to all outside edges except the armhole and hem since these will be bound.
|Adding seam allowance|
|Finished Pattern Pieces|
Ok now I got excited and forgot to take pictures for a little while. But you need to cut the back out on the fold and two front pieces.
Now for sewing: Sew together the back and front pieces at the shoulder using a French seam. Then sew together the sides still using French seams. (At this point I had Linus try on the vest for fit.)
First step of the French seam (wrong sides together 1/4" seam)
|Trim seam with pinking shears|
|Fold over onself and press|
|Then sew seam at 3/8" hiding the raw edge.|
Next I bound the armholes. I cut my fat quarter into single fold 1 ¼” wide binding. Pressed one side in ¼” and then measured how much I needed for the armhole (adding ½” for seam allowance.” After I had cut my binding for each armhole, I put it together with a ¼” seam so it was a continuous circle the size of the armhole. I then pinned it to the armhole right sides together and stitched them with a ¼” seam.
Next I trimmed the seam with my pinking shears and pressed my binding over the raw edge and topstitched on the outside of the binding as close to the seam as I could get.
|This is actually the binding on the hem but you get the idea. I did them both the same way.|
There are two ways to do the next step: the right way and the way I did it. (I did switch to a heavier needle here just because of the bulk of the zipper and remaining seams.)
The right way: Make your zipper the length of you jacket minus 5/8” for the seam allowance around the neck. Then bind the hem and then sew the zipper in.
The way I did it: I knew my chances of everything lining up right on the first try were slim so I put the zipper in first making sure it started 5/8” from the neck line. I zipped it up, admired it and then ripped out the bottom inch of it (trimmed on side of the vest which was about an 1/8” too long.) See the picture above. Bound the hem and then finished the zipper again. I hate using my seam ripper but this seemed to work well for me and didn't take that much extra time.
Next I made the pattern for my hood. I measured from the middle of the back neckline to the edge of my front neckline to know how wide to make my hood pattern. I then traced the curve from one of Linus’s sweatshirts. (I should have used a larger size sweatshirt because the hood ended up a little on the small side.) I added a 5/8” seam allowance around the all the edges except the front which will be bound.
|Adam snapped this picture of Linus "helping."|
Once I cut out the pattern I cut two hood pieces from the quilted fabric. I sewed them together with a French seam.
Then bound the front edge like the armholes and hem. Then I attached the hood to the jacket at the neckline with a French seam.
When I finished this even Adam ooed and awwed over how great it looked! I can't believe how rewarding it was to draw my own pattern. I also can't believe how hard it is to get a 19 month old boy to stand still.